We all love our dogs and want to do what is best for them. Very often we show our love through feeding and sometimes overfeeding them. I do not believe in giving you a list of should, unless I also give you an idea as to the why. As with so much else in this century, we have complicated the notion of what to feed or not to feed our dogs to such a degree that I'm sure a lot of you feel quite frustrated. To clear up some of the smoke screen, let me state a few basic facts.

"Digby" - Owned and loved by: Don Crumb & Carol Giotto

Fact one: Dogs have survived and maintained a high level of health throughout history, (without most of the current health problems) on fresh whole foods. Dogs prior to the manufacture of processed dog food not only survived, but thrived on the feared "table scraps". It wasn't until dogs begin eating 100% manufactured food that we began to see the onset of hip dysphasia and a myriad of other nutritional diseases, such as OCD (Osteochondritis Dissecans), HOD (Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy) and Pano (Panosteitis).

Fact Two: Dogs are omnivorous. This means that they are able to digest and use nutrients from both animal and plant sources. Left to the wild a dog will eat the belly of their prey first. From this they receive the grains, fruits and vegetables, not to mention the enzymes vital to their survival. They will consume the meat of the prey last. This is not to say that the canine does not need meat, they do, but in less quantities than we have been led to believe through the marketing of the high protein products, which brings us to Fact three.

Fact Three: It was accepted for years that "the higher the protein, the better the dog food". If too high a protein food is fed, it makes the canines' kidneys work harder. It is known as being too "hot" a food. Research indicates problems in older dogs in our country is often kidney related............. MORE IS NOT BETTER!!! There are also some nutritional diseases (mentioned earlier) that are caused by feeding too high a protein food and/or unbalancing the calcium-phosphorus ratio in the diet. I won't go into the details of these diseases due to space consideration; if you wish more information I will be happy to supply it.

Nutrition is important for all dogs, but especially the giant breeds with their rapid rate of growth. Puppies should ONLY ever be fed the Adult version of a food. I recommend no higher that 24% protein and between 21% and 23% is better. They should be kept on the slender side, rather than chubby. They are puppies until 2 years of age and the extra weight on young bones, muscles, and tendons can cause damage to your pet.

As long as your pet is being given a high quality food in sufficient quantities, they will achieve their full growth potential. Overfeeding will not give you a larger pet, only an unhealthy one. As a caution, I must tell you to NEVER GIVE CALCIUM SUPPLEMENTS WITHOUT VETERINARIAN APPROVAL. Bone meal and calcium supplements can cause a calcium/phosphorus imbalance in your pet that makes his/her bones porous and brittle, rather than stronger or larger.

There are no deals with dog food. You truly get what you pay for. All BEOWULF pups are fed and conditioned on Back to Basics Super Premium Food for dogs, one of the highest quality dog food in the United States. It is a natural product and is highly digestible. DO NOT ever feed grocery store dog food as they just do not have what these puppies need.

If your pup is growing too rapidly or having trouble getting up and down, please call me. It may be an indication that he is getting too much protein for his individual needs at that point in his life. Part of a concise nutritional program is to balance the consumption with the amount of exercise your dog is getting. If he is crated during the day he should consume less that a puppy that is exercising during the day. Quick growth can ultimately reduce his adult size potential; it interferes with the growth plates. So if ever in doubt give me a call, that's what I'm here for.

It is MANDATORY to give Sodium or Calcium Ascorbate (VIT C). It is vital in keeping the immune system of your pet in top condition. I start the babies on VIT C at birth and have built them up to 1/2 teaspoon by the time they go to their new homes. That is 2000mg per day split into two of their three feedings. This should be increased during times of stress or illness.

Other than Vitamin C I highly encourage you to add fresh or capsuled garlic daily (900 to 1500 mg minimum). Fresh Garlic or garlic capsules are very important in keeping skin clear, fleas away and worms elsewhere. If using fresh garlic use 1 to 3 cloves according to the size of the dog. Do not ever give the Brewers yeast and garlic sold for dogs, it is pretty close to sawdust and not effective. Use the garlic you get at the drug store for humans, odorless is not necessary. Although expensive I believe Kyolic garlic to be the best.

(NOTE: parsley given in food with garlic will cancel out the "bad breath" effect)

If your puppy does not mind the taste, it is great to add 1/2 Tablespoon of Apple Cider vinegar to his food. It is an antioxidant and blood thinner and it assists in the overall digestion and ultimate health of your dog.

Give raw vegetables as chew bones. These pups are raised on carrots, broccoli, green pepper, apples, etc.. They all seem to love bananas, oranges, and yogurt. If you are adding raw vegetables directly to their food, grate it; as their digestive system metabolizes vegetables better from that state. They also love sprouts (alfalfa, bean etc), nuts and seeds. Do not get carried away or the result will be diarrhea. Plus you do not need to give the fruits and vegetables everyday.

Raw beef (1/4 cup) is very good for your dog about once a week. It keeps his system from becoming too alkaline. DO NOT give more meat, cheese, milk etc., while he is young and growing. I know it is tempting to give them the extras that they love so much. For a growing puppy, protein truly can be the enemy. Treat him with an apple wedge or a carrot, not protein.

Chocolate is toxic to canines!! If your dog helps himself to a Hersheys bar do not panic, different dogs are toxic on different levels. This is put here to be a warning, although I'm sure you are well intentioned please keep the chocolate bar to yourself.

Puppies under 4 months of age should be fed 3 times a day at least; after 4 months, feed twice daily throughout the dog's lifetime. I used to say 6 months, but I find that at approximately 4 months the babies begin to refuse their lunch feeding. A good rule is to let your puppy be the guide on when he or she is ready for only 2 meals a day. Puppies at 10 to 12 weeks will be eating approximately 4 to 5 cups per day, increasing gradually to 6 to 8 cups per day by 6 months old. This is dependant on his or her exercise level. If your dog is crated during the day when you are at work, then they should consume less than the pup who is playing during the day. Most adult dogs (2 years and over) maintain their weight on approximately 6 cups of high quality food per day. These are averages and individual dogs will vary depending on exercise, metabolism, etc..

A Mastiff should be neither too fat nor to thin. Use your common sense. Always have plenty of fresh water available, as they drink gallons. Dry feed should be mixed with water and NEVER let your pup roughhouse or exert himself shortly before or for at least an hour after eating.

Any questions on nutrition (what, when, amounts, etc.), you only need to ask. If I do not know the answer, I will find out and get immediately back to you.

It is a good idea to keep Natural Vitamin E on hand, if it says d-alpha 0.tocopherol it is natural, if it says dl-alpha it is synthetic. The synthetic goes through the body with little effect. With any injury or illness I give 200 to 400iu Vitamin E to assist the body's recovery.

It is always a good idea to keep things for your Mastiff to chew on around. Sterile bones that may be purchased through R.C. Steele, Foster & Smith or any pet outlet are very good. However, NEVER allow your dogs to chew on or consume chicken or pork bones. To be safe, our policy is to never give any fresh bones of any type. I do not recommend rawhides, bully sticks, or pigs ears as chew toys.

The largest Kong toy is probably the only toy that I recommend in that it will last a very long time and is big enough that they will not get them stuck in their throats. Nylon bones, etc., are good products, but I can rarely get one of mine to touch them.... if you can....GREAT!